In the beauty realm, gel manicures have emerged as a popular choice for their long-lasting and glossy finish. But, as with many things in life, there’s often a trade-off between convenience and health. Researchers at the University of California San Diego have now cast a shadow over the safety of these sought-after manicures by pointing to the potential harm of ultraviolet (UV) nail polish drying devices commonly used in nail salons.
Under the Microscope: Do UV Nail Polish Dryers Damage DNA?
The nail dryers in question use a specific spectrum of UV light (340-395nm) to expedite the drying and curing process of gel manicures. Prior concerns over UV devices have centered on tanning beds, which operate in a slightly broader spectrum (280-400nm) and have been conclusively shown to increase cancer risks. However, the exact spectrum used in nail polish dryers had, until now, remained largely unexamined. https://www.youtube.com/embed/wLrHs2e_AI4?si=2CLao22y978MI_Ui
Ludmil Alexandrov, a professor at UC San Diego, highlighted the complacency towards these devices: “If you look at the way these devices are presented, they are marketed as safe, with nothing to be concerned about… But to the best of our knowledge, no one has actually studied these devices and how they affect human cells at the molecular and cellular levels until now.”
But the recent findings are a wake-up call. Using three distinct cell lines, researchers discovered that just one 20-minute session under these UV devices resulted in significant cell death, ranging from 20 to 30 percent. When exposure was increased to three consecutive sessions, the cell death rose sharply, claiming between 65 to 70 percent of exposed cells.
More alarmingly, the damage wasn’t limited to cell death. Those cells that survived showed clear signs of mitochondrial and DNA damage, leading to mutations that mirror those observed in skin cancer cases in humans. Alexandrov summarized the disturbing sequence of events: DNA gets damaged, some damage remains unrepaired, leading to mutations every time a UV nail polish dryer is used. The exposure even brought about mitochondrial dysfunction, potentially resulting in further mutations. https://www.youtube.com/embed/4lmyQf9Qx9k?si=Y4hDy5T6IJZjHBPS
Real-World Concerns: From Lab Findings to Personal Choices
For Maria Zhivagui, a postdoctoral scholar in the Alexandrov Lab and the primary author of the study, the findings held more than just academic significance. Once a fan of gel manicures, Maria had integrated them into her routine, valuing their longevity and appearance, especially given her frequent glove use in the experimental lab setting. But when the research spotlighted the radiation‘s destructive effect on cells, she was taken aback.
“Once I saw the effect of radiation emitted by the gel polish drying device on cell death and that it actually mutates cells even after just one 20-minute session, I was surprised. I found this to be very alarming, and decided to stop using it,” Zhivagui shared.
The roots of the study traced back to an unlikely inspiration: a magazine article in a dentist’s office. Alexandrov read about a young beauty pageant contestant diagnosed with an uncommon skin cancer on her finger. Intrigued by the rarity, Alexandrov delved into medical literature. He found sporadic yet concerning reports of unusual finger cancers in individuals frequently getting gel manicures, such as pageant contestants and estheticians. This trend hinted at a possible carcinogenic culprit: the UV nail dryers.
To rigorously investigate this hypothesis, Zhivagui initiated an experiment using the three cell lines. The cells underwent both acute and chronic UV light exposure. Even under the acute exposure conditions, cell death, DNA damage, and mutations were evident. The increase of reactive oxygen species molecules, notorious for inducing DNA damage and mutations, further underscored the risks. Genomic profiling fortified these findings, revealing mutation patterns typically seen in melanoma patients.
Beauty at a Cost: The UV Spectrum’s Dark Side
The inherent allure of gel manicures resides in their durability and pristine finish. Yet, as our understanding grows, it becomes apparent that this sought-after beauty treatment might come with a hefty unseen price. When we think of UV exposure, tanning beds often spring to mind. But as this study has unveiled, nail dryers, which have largely evaded scrutiny, might be lurking in the same dangerous territory.
Tanning Beds vs. Nail Dryers: A Spectrum of Concerns
Tanning beds have long been identified as a health risk. They emit a UV light spectrum (280-400nm) known to be carcinogenic. Nail dryers, on the other hand, have flown under the radar despite using a UV light spectrum (340-395nm) which is alarmingly close to the harmful range of tanning beds. This begs the question: have we been overlooking a significant health risk? https://www.youtube.com/embed/mGE8QSe-hTg?si=IR9qLH4nLZyeqGuG
How Often Is Too Often?
Is the occasional gel manicure a genuine cause for worry, or is the alarm reserved for those indulging frequently? Further research is imperative to delineate the precise risks. Yet, with an abundance of cosmetic alternatives, many might deem it prudent to side with caution.
The study authors don’t mince words. Drawing from their data and the anecdotal evidence of rare hand cancers in frequent gel manicure enthusiasts, they postulate a significant cancer risk from UV nail dryers. They equate the threat to that posed by tanning beds, suggesting a potential for early-onset skin cancer. The clarion call for large-scale epidemiological studies rings clear, even if the results might take over a decade to fully materialize and inform the masses.
Nail It Right: UV-Safe Ways to Rock Your Manicure
While gel manicures offer the promise of long-lasting shine and fewer chips, the potential risks associated with UV nail dryers shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s essential to strike a balance between the allure of a perfect manicure and the health of your nails and skin.
1. Limit UV Exposure: The occasional gel manicure might be a treat, but frequently exposing your nails and skin to UV light might be riskier than you think. Consider spacing out your gel manicures and opting for regular nail polish in between sessions. Not only does this reduce your UV exposure, but it also gives your nails a breather, promoting better nail health.
2. Shorten Curing Time: Did you know that not all gel polishes require the same amount of time to cure? Next time, ask your manicurist if it’s possible to set the polish for a shorter time under the UV light. This small adjustment can significantly reduce your UV exposure over time.
3. Apply Sunscreen: Before you slide your hand into that UV nail dryer, apply a layer of broad-spectrum sunscreen to the back of your hands and fingers. This acts as a protective barrier against the UV rays, minimizing potential harm to your skin cells.
4. Wear Protective Gloves: There are gloves specifically designed for gel manicures, where only the nail is exposed, and the rest of your hand is covered. Investing in a pair and bringing them to your manicure appointments can substantially shield your hands from UV exposure.
5. Explore Alternatives to Gel Manicures: There’s a world of nail treatments beyond the UV-cured gel manicure. Regular nail polishes are always in vogue, and there’s an upswing in popularity for dip powder nails, which offer longevity similar to gel polishes without UV exposure. Press-on nails have also made a trendy comeback, offering various designs and lengths without the hassle of drying or curing.
6. Opt for Salons with Safer Alternatives: Modern salons are recognizing the potential hazards of UV dryers and are switching to LED alternatives, which are believed to be somewhat safer. When booking, inquire about the type of nail dryer they use and express a preference for LED if available.
Rethinking Radiant Results
In the pursuit of beauty and personal expression, it’s vital to remain informed and prioritize our health. The allure of long-lasting gel manicures has captured many, but as research reveals, there might be hidden costs to this convenience. While the definitive link between UV nail dryers and skin cancer requires further studies, being cautious and informed is paramount. As the world of beauty and science evolves, so too should our approach to personal care, ensuring we get the best of both worlds without compromising our well-being.
